Supercharger technology has progressed in leaps and bounds over the past decade. Depending on what your application is and what sort of driving characteristics you're chasing, there's almost certainly a blower to suit your car's engine, whether as a ready-to-go bolt-on engineered kit, or as a one-off installation.
Positive Displacement BlowersPositive displacement superchargers fall into two categories - Roots and screw-type (aka Lysholm). Roots type blowers force air into an engine using two counter-rotating rotors. In modern Roots blowers, the rotors are helically formed to help reduce pulsing from outlet. Even so, Roots blowers are relatively inefficient, producing the most charge air heat for a given amount of boost pressure. Their attraction is their ability to produce boost pressure from idle rpm, turning any engine into an instant torque monster. There are a number of manufacturers of Roots blowers, but one of the most well known brands - Eaton - is used on a number of production engines from Ford, Buick, Holden, Mercedes and Jaguar. Being able to meet Original Equipment manufacturer's durability demands speaks volumes about performance and reliability.
Twin-screw (aka Lysholm) superchargers operate similarly to a Roots unit, but their rotors and drive system is more complex. Twin-screw rotors have a twisted lobe profile and each one rotates at different speed. Induction air is compressed as it travels along the length of the rotors, giving less charge-air temperature increase than a similar Roots design. These are probably the most desirable of all blower types. Some of the more high-profile twin-screw supercharger manufacturers are Sprintex, Opcon Autorotor and Whipple. Centrifugal BlowersCentrifugal blowers have become extremely popular in the last decade or so. Centris are best imagined as a belt-driven turbocharger - they have a compressor wheel and cover, but forget about the turbocharger's exhaust side. The fundamental difference between a positive displacement blower and a centrifugal unit is the quantity of air that they deliver per revolution. A displacement blower forces the same volume of air into the engine per crankshaft revolution, while the centrifugal cousins deliver airflow that rises as the square of their rotational speed (blower speed, not engine speed). Step-up gears within the blower make the compressor spin faster than the engine, while the external drive pulleys are geared so that the maximum desired boost level is attained at redline engine rpm. A centrifugal blower doesn't give the neck-snapping instant torque that you can achieve using a positive displacement blower. Instead, the blower progressively builds boost pressure, and - therefore - torque. This means a given a car won't feel as grunty, but - ultimately - it might make similar top-end power as a displacement blower. Note that some cheaper centrifugal blowers contain a simple flat bladed compressor wheel, but the more efficient designs use a complex curved blade profile to attain maximum airflow with the least possible 'working' of the air that leads to a charge-air temperature increase.
What's Best For You?With all these choices it may seem like a toss-up decision to go one way or the other. Your decision should be based on your application and the sort of torque delivery you're chasing. As mentioned, a positive displacement blower offers strong boost pressure from idle, while a centrifugal blower builds boost as revs rise. If your car has good traction and the driveline can handle the extra grunt, a positive displacement blower is probably the best approach for a snappy streetcar. With more balls down low, there is a fuel consumption penalty over a centrifugal blower, but the driving experience is much more rewarding. On the other hand, centrifugal blowers certainly have their place. They're more driver-friendly in wet weather conditions as they don't really begin to haul until there's a few revs on board, installation is often neater and they offer arguably the best value for money. Making things easier are various off-the-shelf centrifugal blower kits designed to suit many popular performance (and non-performance!) cars. These kits typically include the blower unit, a heavy duty mounting arrangement, drive belt with idler and tensioner, a management system tweak, revised air intake and, often, an oil cooling system for the blower. There's all you need in one tight little bundle. Intake air temperatures are a major concern when talking forced induction. If you're going the route of a cheaper, paddle style centrifugal blower (which produces high charge-air temperatures), it's almost mandatory to have an intercooler or water injection system installed. It adds significant cost to the overall price of a blower install, but - without one - you're not realising maximum power, it'll be damn difficult to release further power and you're walking the fine line of engine detonation.
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