Investment in Mods - Part Two

In Part One of this series we looked at modifying your car’s interior and audio system – mods that don’t cost a lot up-front and provide good returns when it comes time to sell. Now, in Part Two we’ll look at exterior modifications...

Again, the theme is low cost and high return.

Wheels/Tyres

Ahhh, good ol’ wheels and tyres. A fancy set of wheels can transform the appearance of a car - but they can also set you back a monumental amount of money.

Given the expense of high quality new wheels, it’s a good idea to start looking for second-handies. Unfortunately, most private sellers of second-hand wheels have no idea about wheel PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter) so it’s handy to have a mag wheel application chart you can refer to. (PCD, in case you don't know, is the diameter of an imaginary circle that passes through the centre of each wheel stud.) These application charts list the PCD and number of wheel mounting studs for a wide selection of vehicles. Take note of vehicles having the same number of wheel studs and PCD as your car – wheels from these vehicles will bolt onto your hubs.

But that’s only half of the problem.

The other consideration is wheel offset; the distance the outer face of the wheel sits away from the mounting face. When the mounting face is closer than halfway to the outer face the wheel is said to have a positive offset. The opposite applies in the case of a negative offset wheel. The amount of offset is expressed in millimetres. Again, most private wheel sellers don’t know much about wheel offset so you can ask them to measure it.

Here’s how:

Lay a straight edge across the back of the wheel rim and measure the distance between the straight edge and the hub mounting face. This distance is known as the backspace. Next, measure the width of the wheel. Both measurements should be in millimetres. To calculate wheel offset the formula is: offset = backspace minus (width/2). For example, if a wheel is 178mm wide and the backspace is 150mm the offset equates to 61mm.

Note, however, nothing beats test fitting wheels to the car, checking their clearance and going for a short drive.

Another thing to check out when buying second-hand is damage to the rim. Many wheels have been gutter scraped, buckled and/or cracked. Also be aware that wheels imported from Japan are very difficult to replace – if one is terminally damaged, it might be impossible to find a replacement.

See Buying Alloy Wheels on the Cheap for the full details of buying second-hand wheels.

And what about tyres?

Well, after spending a small fortune on upgrade wheels, few people can afford high quality tyres to go with them. In many instances the most cost-effective approach is to buy a set of wheels with decent tyres already fitted – you won’t need to buy new rubbers and pay to have them fitted and balanced.

If the wheels are supplied without tyres (or the supplied tyres are stuffed) you can keep an eye out for second hand tyres. Tyre retailers will tell you otherwise but there’s no reason you can’t buy a good, safe set of used tyres and save $. However, when buying second-hand tyres you must give them a close inspection inside and out – look out for sidewall damage, uneven wear, perished rubber and punctures.

Body Kits/Spoilers

The fitted-and-painted cost of some body kits is absolutely astronomical. Another cost can then be encountered when it comes time to sell – some people will pay less for a car with the body kit that you shelled out so much for... Ouch!

When it comes to body kits we suggest that you play it safe – go for something relatively subtle, not outlandish.

For a subtle aesthetic lift it’s wise to start looking around for OE body upgrade parts – front lower lips, boot lid extensions, side skirts and sports-spec grilles. These components will give a universally admired cosmetic lift because, with a few exceptions, car manufacturers usually get it right. The same can’t be said of aftermarket body kits; some aftermarket creations are completely void of visual balance and cohesion.

If you absolutely must buy an aftermarket body kit, you should make sure it’s good quality. Some of the cheap rip-offs are very poorly constructed and you’re guaranteed they’ll sag over time. We’ve heard of one person who had to drill holes in his aftermarket spoiler element to let trapped air escape on hot days – the expending hot air caused the element to bulge!

Note that, wherever possible, you should use existing bodywork holes to mount the new kit. This makes it easier to revert the vehicle to its standard appearance if prospective buyers don’t like the look of the kit.

Accessories

At some point in your enhancement proceedings you may feel the need to ‘accessorise’ your car. Please avoid all urge to do this!

Ignore all temptation to buy illuminated washer jets, under-car neon, elaborate mud flaps, earth straps, weirdo muffler tips, wiper arms and coloured wiper blades. These are all up-front costs that are guaranteed to put off future buyers.

Getting the Basics Right Many people rely on body kits for a visual boost – but what about working on the presentation of what you’ve already got? In many instances the basics of vehicle presentation are overlooked. You’ll be amazed how much better your car looks after it has been professionally polished and waxed, the wheels have been thoroughly cleaned, the tyres blackened and the windows cleaned. Some of the nicest cars we’ve featured on AutoSpeed haven’t been outlandish in style – they’re just beautifully presented.

In Part Three – the final – of this series we’ll look at engine modification.